If you are so inclined, there is a ‘program’ for you. A program tailored closely to what you dream of. There is a steep price tag attached to these programs, but that doesn’t deter the poor and the desperate. With more than 25% of the population living on less than US$1.9 a day, Sierra Leone is one of the poorest countries in the world, and there is a perception amongst the younger generation that nothing is going to improve anytime soon. There are stacked vulnerabilities, for women in particular, with 61% of those in the 15-19 age group subject to female genital mutilation (going up to 95% in the 45-49 age group). Preying on this insecurity, the men and women peddling the programs are Sierra Leone’s version of snake oil salesmen. And they are as slippery as they come; persistent and helpful until you reach the airport at Conakry and Accra and are handed documents in a foreign language, headed to a destination and a job you know little about. The agents, usually with a generic name – a John or a Mary – make themselves scarce once the candidate has boarded the flight.
From most places outside the West African region, getting to Sierra Leone is a task – flights, ferries, and buses are all pressed into service to get you into the country. Yet, hundreds of women risk life and limb – quite literally, for some – making that journey out, and often return in a shroud of shame and stigma.
Alima is dressed in a bright yellow velveteen tracksuit set, shiny white sneakers, freshly braided hair, long colourful stick-on plastic nails and a white knock-off designer purse that she clutches to her chest throughout the long flight from Addis Ababa to Accra to Lungi. After exchanging hesitant smiles, it’s only at the end of the first leg that she opens up. Her point of departure was Dubai, the day had been long, it was Eid al-Fitr, and she was eager to reach home and reunite with her young son to celebrate the festival.
She peeks into her purse every so often. Arranging and rearranging her braids as she watches her reflection on the cracked phone screen. She then browses photos of her six-year-old son from the last few years. He has grown in her absence, she sighs. A few times she takes out her passport and flips through the pages. She is eager to promote her country to the first-time visitor, guaranteeing that the food would be great and the beaches lovely. The next time she flips through her passport, she offers a glimpse. There are only three stamps. The exit from Conakry (Guinea), the entry and exit from Dubai. There are no visa stickers. She takes out a sheet of paper folded into a small rectangle to fit into her purse. “This is my outpass, do you think I am banned? Will I be able to go back?”
She left home in March 2021, just over two years earlier, with the promise of a job in Dubai as a cleaner. She recalls her story in starts and stops. “Dubai too much stress, I did not want to work as a housemaid, but they said I have to pay money to come back.” So she took matters into her own hands, fled the agent’s office and found odd jobs, until it got too tough for her to continue. “I am a Muslim,” she says – sitting up straighter, expressing pride in that part of her identity – “and an Islamic group I am part of paid for my flight ticket to come back.” She continues to fret over what the outpass (an official exit permit for people who overstay their visas) dictates, in a language she does not understand. Her return home is a transit, before the next appealing program comes her way.



